Thanks a lot, modemhead. Sealants and conformals are out, I thought as much. May be I will scrub real thorough with IPA once again once again, dry it out for a day @40C, and keep my fingers crossed. As a last resort, I WILL replace caps thereafter. Or just store the thing in Ziploc bag at all times, which works well.Perhaps an ionic contaminant sits critically on the board or at the root of a component, or even inside the switch. Not easy to dislodge, dissolve and eject, or float out. Reabsorbs moisture on exposure, etc.The offset on 20V up is always NEGATIVE. Could it be galvanic, instead of leakage from the only negative source? Measuring at terminal shows unsteady reading of some millivolts, always a fraction of the offset reading. May be I should use a high impedance meter instead of the 10M usual.
I have an ex-Finnish military 8060A, which i bought maybe two years ago from the Millog surplus outlet, with test leads for 7 Eur, thats 10 bucks.The board is 8060a-3001-REV F, so it is an oldie.Excellent condition on the outside, must have been a lab-test meter, not a field one.
Restoring An HP LCZ Meter From The 1980s
Thanks for such a great detailed write-up! I inherited my 8060a from my father, and have many good memories of time together working in the garage together on projects. Unfortunately two of my light colored switch covers have broken over the years, and my soft key button array is missing entirely. Could you point me to a resource to find these, or might I impose on you to sell me the missing parts? I want to restore this unit to its former glory and keep using it as long as I can. Thank you for any response and please keep writing and restoring!
From the pictures you can see that it is 3 capacitors sitting in series from the transformer to the output of the 2 grey wires, so it is basically a 3700 AC rated and 2.2nF/3 capacitor bank. So I would not worry about 5% or 10%. If you do, just buy 10 and match them with LCR meter. 2ff7e9595c
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